Let us imagine for a second that you are in search of a place where life stands still, be it for just a brief moment of tranquil reflection on time passing by.
Forget satellite navigation, the hustle of busy streets, quick working lunches and endless meetings. Recently we did just that and headed west, to Clifden.
Leaving Dublin city center we embark on a completely unplanned journey to the west of Ireland, in search of adventure. And lets just say Clifden din’t disappoint. But more on that later.
Getting there:
To get to Clifden is fairly simple from Dublin, set your sites for the M4 and later the M6 motorway, leave some coins in the ashtray for the two tolls along the way (less than 10 euro) and don’t look at the map until you reach Galway some 2 hours later. Hey presto you have just crossed the whole country!
What can I see along the way:
To summarize everything worth stopping by along the way in one post would be unfair, so here are some notable examples:
Furey’s Bar and restaurant: If a little hungry after leaving Dublin give this little gem a try. Food is incredible (served from Monday to Saturday 12pm to 8pm) and nestled only 10 minutes or so from the town of Enfield in County Meath it boast a great view of the Grand canal with barges often seen moored outside. Also if you do take the Enfield exit you will bypass the toll and rejoin the motorway somewhat west at Kinnegad.
Athlone Castle and Museum: Dating to the 12th Century this has become a greatly administered tourist site and museum that belongs in a Mel Gibson biopic. Tickets online start at a little over 4 euro and you will hear tales of bravery, treachery and the great siege once experienced within these very walls.
Sean’s Bar Athlone : Athlone is known as the ford of Luain and Sean’s bar has been here for a thousand years (its in the Guinness book of records!) Look it up I dare you! It’s also half way to galway and a short spin off the motorway, link attached.
Galway, Now what?
This is where the magic of rural Connemara starts to present itself. As you approach Galway and passing by the town of Aughrim ( site of a Famous battle from 1691 well worth a detour) you will start noticing a change in the landscape. Stone walls will loose their mortar and the skyline will stretch west toward the Atlantic. You are nearly there as you pass the town of Athenry where a national monument and castle stand. Well worth a visit. (Yes, that Athenry)
But we were on a mission for adventure and passing Galway via the ring road we joined the National road N59 and headed for the distant mountains known as the twelve Bens. The road itself is lined with endless fields and farms with shaggy-haired sheep occasionally traversing the road ahead. At one point the road actually winds over Balynahinch lake itself, with breathtaking scenery the result. ”Simply stunning, simply wild” were my colleague’s comments.
The Kayaking adventure
We were however on a path to the western-most point of this wilderness and passing our overnight stop in Clifden town and a quick fuel up later we headed for a tiny rural village of Cleggan and our wild Atlantic kayaking experience with Real adventures.ie. I would like to take a moment here and express my gratitude to these guys who really look after their clients. They looked after my colleague and I with utmost professionalism and patience.
When we met our guide at the mouth of a calm sandy bay, the only sign of human existence was an occasional fishing boat or a crab pot. Perfect!
We were then expertly instructed on local wildlife and prevailing sea conditions as well as the control and safe operation of the open top kayaks we would be using. The guide slowly brought us out of the bay and we hugged the coastline for no more then a mile, occasionally stopping to inspect a sea cave or a local animal species. The two hours we were out on the water seemed like minutes as we realized this is what we came here for. The Wild, finally!
The Night life in Connemara
After we had finished floating on the waves of the Atlantic, we were given tips on the local cuisine and bar scene, but knowing it was a Monday evening we did not expect much.
I could not have been any more wrong. Dining on fresh mussels and white wine we were elated. That surely had to be that? Not even close.
Turns out the local rugby team had won a cup final, always cause for a celebration, and the town radiated with a friendly, jubilant atmosphere. The locals in Lowry’s bar welcomed us and let us join in on a traditional music session (they have live music here most nights). And as I looked around me, surrounded by the music, dancing in this small seaside town on the edge of Europe I knew that we had succeeded in our escape from the big city into a hearty, wild Irish welcome. Will be back!
